An e-bike's advertised range is measured flat, warm, and on the lowest assist setting — hills and cold cut it hard.Class 1, 2 and 3 are legal categories, not marketing terms, and they decide where you're allowed to ride.A watt-hour (Wh) rating tells you battery size; it tells you nothing about range until terrain and assist level are added.E-bikes are stolen at several times the rate of standard bicycles — the lock is not an accessory, it's part of the bike.A battery is rated in charge cycles, not years — how often you charge it matters more than how old it is.An e-bike's advertised range is measured flat, warm, and on the lowest assist setting — hills and cold cut it hard.Class 1, 2 and 3 are legal categories, not marketing terms, and they decide where you're allowed to ride.A watt-hour (Wh) rating tells you battery size; it tells you nothing about range until terrain and assist level are added.E-bikes are stolen at several times the rate of standard bicycles — the lock is not an accessory, it's part of the bike.A battery is rated in charge cycles, not years — how often you charge it matters more than how old it is.

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The E-Bike Buying & Range Readiness Checklist

Everything on this site compressed into a document you can work through before you spend anything: the class system explained, a worksheet to estimate your own realistic range, and the buying questions worth asking any retailer.

The three-class system explained, and how to check your state's specific rules.
A worksheet to estimate your own realistic range from terrain, assist and weight.
The motor and battery questions worth asking before you buy.
The security checklist that actually reduces e-bike theft risk.

No payment, no account, no waiting for an email — the PDF downloads the moment you submit.

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