Choose an e-bike on real range, not the number on the box
Class, motor, battery and price all trade off differently depending on what you actually need the bike to do. This is an independent US guide to comparing them honestly — we sell no e-bikes and are not the retailer, brand or manufacturer of any model discussed here.
What are you trying to choose between?
Six routes into the same decision
Pick the one that matches what you're actually trying to work out.
Classes and local rules
What Class 1, 2 and 3 actually mean, and where each is allowed.
Read the class guide →Real range, estimated
Run your own terrain, weather and weight through the estimator.
Estimate my range →Motors, torque and hills
What actually gets you up a hill — and what watts alone don't tell you.
Read the motor guide →Commuter, cargo, trail or folding
The four common styles, compared on what they're actually for.
Compare the styles →Safety gear worth buying
The short list that actually matters, and the list that doesn't.
Read the gear guide →Locking it properly
Why the lock matters more than the bike once you own one.
Read the locking guide →Four calculators, on your own numbers
Real range for your terrain, commute cost against what you pay now, charging cost per year, and a buying readiness check — nothing you enter leaves your browser.
Real range estimator
What you'll actually get per charge once terrain, assist level, temperature and your own weight are factored in — not the box number.
Assumptions this uses
- Efficiency is modelled from typical hub and mid-drive motor performance at each assist level, not a specific model's exact spec sheet.
- Usable battery capacity is assumed at 85% of rated Wh, which is typical of how manufacturers manage cell longevity.
- Terrain, assist, temperature, weight and stop frequency are treated as multiplying factors on baseline energy use per mile.
Limitations: it does not model your specific bike's exact motor efficiency, tire pressure, wind conditions, or a battery that has already lost capacity with age — treat the result as a realistic planning range, not a guarantee of the exact miles you'll get.
Runs entirely in your browser.
Compare on watt-hours and torque, not price alone
Two e-bikes at the same price can differ enormously in battery size and motor torque, which is where real range and hill performance actually come from. Note the watt-hour rating and the motor's torque figure for every model you're weighing, then compare those numbers side by side before the price tag decides anything.
Ask about a class, a spec or a use case
Five free replies a day. It turns your use case into a class and style shortlist — it does not recommend a specific brand or model.
Send us the question the spec sheet didn't answer
A range claim that doesn't add up, two models you can't compare fairly on torque or battery size, or a class question specific to your state — this reaches a person, not a sales queue.
This is not an order and nothing is reserved. We are not a retailer, brand or manufacturer — where a real number matters, we'll point you to where it actually lives.
Partner link — we may be paid a fee at no cost to you. How we make money.
See current models from a real retailer
We publish no live prices or inventory, because no independent guide can keep either current honestly. A retailer's own listings show what's actually in stock and at what price today.
Browse e-bike retailers →The gear that actually earns its place
Four things e-bike owners actually buy. Not a ranking, and not the point of this site — the guides and calculators above are.
How we make money: some links here are partner or affiliate links and we may be paid a fee at no cost to you. It never changes what we write or how options are ordered — see our disclosure and methodology.
The E-Bike Buying & Range Readiness Checklist
Everything on this site compressed into a document you can work through before you spend anything: the class system explained, a worksheet to estimate your own realistic range, and the buying questions worth asking any retailer.
When you're ready to see real models and prices
This site publishes no prices and represents no single e-bike brand. These are the categories where real numbers come from. Partner links are labelled; nothing here is a ranking or an endorsement.
How we make money: some links here are partner or affiliate links and we may be paid a fee at no cost to you. It never changes what we write or how options are ordered — see our disclosure and methodology.
E-bike retailer listings
See current models, in-stock availability and real pricing across commuter, cargo, trail and folding styles — the only way to get a real number for the class you've settled on.
Browse e-bike retailers →E-bike buying questions, answered straight
No brochure language. Where the answer depends on your state or your specific model, we say so rather than guessing.
What's the real difference between Class 1, 2 and 3 e-bikes?
Class 1 is pedal-assist only, up to 20 mph. Class 2 adds a throttle, also capped at 20 mph. Class 3 is pedal-assist only but capped at 28 mph and often restricted from bike paths and trails. The class decides where you can legally ride far more than the brand or price does — check your state and local rules before assuming any class is allowed everywhere.
Why is the range I'm actually getting so much lower than advertised?
Manufacturer range figures are measured under close-to-ideal conditions: flat ground, mild temperature, lowest assist level, and often a light rider. Hills, cold weather, higher assist and a heavier rider or cargo load can each cut real range substantially, and they compound. The range estimator runs your own conditions rather than the lab's.
How long does an e-bike battery actually last?
Batteries are rated in charge cycles, not calendar years — typically several hundred full cycles before capacity noticeably declines. How often and how deeply you cycle it matters more than its age sitting in a garage. Heat, deep discharges and cheap fast-chargers all shorten real lifespan.
Is a more expensive e-bike always a better e-bike?
Not necessarily — price reflects component quality, brand support and features like integrated lights or a torque sensor, but it doesn't automatically mean more range or a better fit for your use case. A commuter model priced mid-range with the right class and battery size can outperform a pricier bike built for a different purpose.
What's actually worth buying alongside the bike?
A certified helmet and a lock rated for e-bike theft are the two purchases worth prioritizing before anything else. Lights and a basic tool kit come next. Beyond that, most accessories are about comfort and convenience rather than necessity.
Are e-bikes actually stolen more than regular bikes?
Yes, at a meaningfully higher rate, largely because of resale value. A cable lock deters almost no one determined; a hardened U-lock or chain, used correctly and locked to a fixed object, changes the calculation for most opportunistic theft.